Day 21 - Thurs 30 Sept - Paris - Lille

Well if I climbed Mt Everest yesterday – I ran the 400m hurdle in world record time this morning. Having asked the Concierge to order us a cab for 8:30am this morning, we were a bit worried when she told us after breakfast that she had been unable to make a reservation. With no taxis available at either the taxi rink or by phone our only option was to take the underground again. So in the rain, and loaded like pack horses we clambered down to the nearest station, Pyramides. There are no lifts at these stations so the luggage proved to be a challenge. We found the line we were to take and settled back feeling a little reassured until we realized we were going in the wrong direction! Gripped with terror, I had to ask a stranger where we were – we eventually got onto the right platform and headed back the way we had come. After another line change we made it to Gare de Nord and then up 2 levels to catch the very fast train. I sought the assistance of one of the many soldiers that was guarding the station – there have been a few security scares of late. While we were on the Eiffel the evacuation alarm sounded but turned out to be a false alarm. We had decided that was enough for us. The army are patrolling most major sites equipped with machine guns.

After the hour’s trip to Lille we were collected by our host Christain and joined other Aussies on the tour for lunch.  In Belgium they prefer to eat their large meal for the day at lunchtime as they say it makes them sleep better at night.  So our lunch quite substantial, starting with vegetable soup with small meat balls, followed by a large plate of belgium stew made from venison and served with vegetables and a glass of wine. That was it for Stuart and myself who tried to stay awake in the afternoon as we were driven to the various points of interest.

We visited many local sights including; Ypres, the restored German trench system at Bayernwald, the Messines mines along the Ridge, Messines, Ploegsteert (Plugstreet Wood), Hill 60 (1st Aust. Tunnellng Company Memorial) and the Caterpilar. Dinner was in town with the other Aussies and at 8:00pm in Ypres everyone comes out of the shops/restaurants into the streets to join in the Last Post Ceremony at Menin Gate. This service of thanks has been held every night – since the Menin Gate memorial was completed in 1927 and will continue to occur into perpetuity. They will always show their appreciation to the liberators.  It is an amazing feeling being surrounded by such history which is so close to our hearts.  There are so many small cemeteries scattered everywhere - such a tragic sight.

Polygon Wood

The dedicatory plaque on the front face of the memorial has a few words in English and French. The English simply declares that the memorial is ‘To the Officers, Non–Commissioned Officers and Men’ who served in the division between 1916 and 1918. The French includes the rather more gracious phrase ‘A la Mémoire des ..’, ‘To the memory of …’. Beneath the dedication the Fifth Division listed 17 battle locations in France and Belgium, places it wished the visitor to realise epitomised for the soldiers of the division their struggle and sacrifice on the Western Front.