Day 21 - Thurs 30 Sept - Paris - Lille

Well if I climbed Mt Everest yesterday – I ran the 400m hurdle in world record time this morning. Having asked the Concierge to order us a cab for 8:30am this morning, we were a bit worried when she told us after breakfast that she had been unable to make a reservation. With no taxis available at either the taxi rink or by phone our only option was to take the underground again. So in the rain, and loaded like pack horses we clambered down to the nearest station, Pyramides. There are no lifts at these stations so the luggage proved to be a challenge. We found the line we were to take and settled back feeling a little reassured until we realized we were going in the wrong direction! Gripped with terror, I had to ask a stranger where we were – we eventually got onto the right platform and headed back the way we had come. After another line change we made it to Gare de Nord and then up 2 levels to catch the very fast train. I sought the assistance of one of the many soldiers that was guarding the station – there have been a few security scares of late. While we were on the Eiffel the evacuation alarm sounded but turned out to be a false alarm. We had decided that was enough for us. The army are patrolling most major sites equipped with machine guns.

After the hour’s trip to Lille we were collected by our host Christain and joined other Aussies on the tour for lunch.  In Belgium they prefer to eat their large meal for the day at lunchtime as they say it makes them sleep better at night.  So our lunch quite substantial, starting with vegetable soup with small meat balls, followed by a large plate of belgium stew made from venison and served with vegetables and a glass of wine. That was it for Stuart and myself who tried to stay awake in the afternoon as we were driven to the various points of interest.

We visited many local sights including; Ypres, the restored German trench system at Bayernwald, the Messines mines along the Ridge, Messines, Ploegsteert (Plugstreet Wood), Hill 60 (1st Aust. Tunnellng Company Memorial) and the Caterpilar. Dinner was in town with the other Aussies and at 8:00pm in Ypres everyone comes out of the shops/restaurants into the streets to join in the Last Post Ceremony at Menin Gate. This service of thanks has been held every night – since the Menin Gate memorial was completed in 1927 and will continue to occur into perpetuity. They will always show their appreciation to the liberators.  It is an amazing feeling being surrounded by such history which is so close to our hearts.  There are so many small cemeteries scattered everywhere - such a tragic sight.

Polygon Wood

The dedicatory plaque on the front face of the memorial has a few words in English and French. The English simply declares that the memorial is ‘To the Officers, Non–Commissioned Officers and Men’ who served in the division between 1916 and 1918. The French includes the rather more gracious phrase ‘A la Mémoire des ..’, ‘To the memory of …’. Beneath the dedication the Fifth Division listed 17 battle locations in France and Belgium, places it wished the visitor to realise epitomised for the soldiers of the division their struggle and sacrifice on the Western Front.

Day 20 - Wed 29 Sept - She said : He said

She said:

Today was planned to be a rest day!  After catching a bug on the Trafalgar Tour - nicknamed 'The Bourdeaux Bark', I have found that my sensitivity to dust in carpets has been exasperated by our old world room which has carpet, curtains and walls covered in matching fabric.  I have needed to acquire some medication to prevent my asthma from taking grip.  Unable to get it from Australia, via a script I found I was able to buy it at a local pharmacy allbeit very expensive at 64euro for a drug which would cost $25AUST. Not to worry when you need it you will pay anything.  Walked to La Fayette / Printemps for a shopping fix where I added 2 hats to my collection.  While at Printemps we tried to catch a bus that would take us to Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a very large park in hilly terrain north east of Paris.  Stuart was very disheartened that we could not find the right bus stop, so we returned to our hotel.  The concierge suggested we take the Metro (underground rail).  After buying our tickets (no easy feat) and travelling on 3 different lines to reach the park - Stuart then read out the description of our intended walk and the word 'strenuous' immediately sent me into terror.  The proposed 90 minute walk around the park was immediately adjusted and I literally felt as if I had ascended and descended Mt.Everest.  It was a lovelly park with suspension bridges, many steps, grotto, lakes and hills!  Felt good returning to the hotel again after conquering the Metro for the return trip!

He said:

After doing more shopping at La Fayette Printemps at cosy to hot temperatures, we had a nice, relatively economic lunch.  We set off to catch the number 26 bus to 'Parc des Buttes Chaumont'.  After fruitless searching for a No 26 bus, we drudged back to the hotel.

The concierge convinced Sandra that the Metro trains were very good, we set off for the park.  A relatively quick, x 3 trains trip found at the right train station for the Parc.  The three huge flights of steps up out of the station did not assist Sandra's anticipation for the Parc.  After starting to read the tour instructions for the Parc walk and being 'stopped' at the word 'strenuous', the instructions were dispensed with.  After loosing the path and retracing our steps we obviously tripped around the 'fountain gate' end of the Parc.  However, perserverence and my inate sense of direction eventually uncovered what the Parc Buttess Chaumont is reknown for (phew!!).

The photographs speak for themselves!!

The metro is very good and very regular.  We only had to stand once in the six train changes but didn't have to wait more than 3 minutes for a connecting train.

Sandra was a little tired, but perked up over a Starbuck's decaf.

Day 19 - Tues 28 Sept - Paris

After a sleep-in and a leisurely breakfast in the hotel's lovely dining room overlooking an old style courtyard of sandstone and green creeping plants, we bussed it to Musee D'Orsay arriving at 12:00pm.  We experienced our first queue and took about an hour to enter.  The Musee is a magnificent old building modernised and well laid out for all types of art exhibitions.  Although containing a large number of people we were able to move about more freely and see all exhibits.  Sandra saw her impressionist art of Monet and Degas.  While on the western side of Paris we walked the full length and back of the Avenue Des Champs Elysses.  We finished off the day with french scones and coffee in a lovely cafe in the covered arcade "Galarie Vivienne" we had discovered on Sunday.  Although to balance our fine dining, we had Italian pizza and Bourdeaux wine for dinner.  Last day in Paris tomorrow and are feeling like we need a holiday!  Will have a restful day.

Day 18 - Mon 27 Sept - Paris

After a good nights sleep we finished breakfast and were ready to hit the East side of Paris by 10.00am.  We bought a two day L'Opera Tour bus ticket.  First we walked around the smaller of the two islands in the Seine where Paris originally settled in 300BC.  This island is called 'Ile de St.Louis' and its main central street has many small boutiques (Sandra visited them all!).  The whole is more than the sum of the parts here.  The area radiates authenticity and charm and looks very much like the Paris we see in the movies.

Back on the bus for the full tour of Bastille and Berey for many new and and unique contemporary architecture buildings.  One complex with multi-storied towers reflecting four open books around a huge open plaza.  Another a multi-functional sports and events stadium with external sloping 'green' walls.

Back on foot we went the 3km to the hotel passing through the 'Place des Vosges' - a lovely square surrounded by villas of the same construction.  Lastly, the art exhibition centre 'Centre Pompidou' which to maximise internal spaces has all ducts, pipework, escalator and lifts outside the building, all coloured for a very dramatic effect.

Day 17 - Sun 26 Sept - Paris

Enjoyed a sleep-in today as checkout was not until 12 noon from our Pullman Hotel at La Defense.  It was a very modern hotel and we were able to take advantage of their fantastic internet facilities.  We took a taxi to our next hotel - Hotel Molier which is situated right near The Louvre and within handy walking distance to many major attractions.  We didn't have a clue where the taxi driver was taking us and hoped that he was not chosing the scenic route - into the country and then back into the city.  It was another white knuckle ride, close misses to pedestrians and any vehicle that got in his way.  I did feel like crossing myself when we arrived safely at the hotel and did a silent prayer to god for thanks.  We followed a small walking tour of the local area once we had settled in.  The walk included the Palais Royal courtyard and an elegant covered passage lined with many shops and chambers called "Galarie Vivienne".  For dinner at "Chez Clement Opera" (a lovely brassiere) we had a very nice french style dinner (Sandra - spinach ravioli and Stuart - rack of lamb cutlets).

Day 16 - Sat, 25 Sept - Paris

Having survived a packed itinerary yesterday, I wondered how today would transpire.  Our first stop was the Eiffel Tower - the weather was good and we took advantage of the views from the second level.  We preferred the view from the ground rather than looking down from it.  Security at the main attractions has been tightened, similar to that of airports.  The entry to major tourist attractions now takes time.

From the Eiffel Tower we visited Invalides wear Napoleon set up the first hospital and retirement home for his soldiers.  We viewed his tomb which is housed under the golden dome in the chapel.  We had lunch at
The Louvre and then had a guided tour featuring the most famous paintings and sculptures, including; the Mona Lisa and statue of Diana.   The paintings and sculptures all have interesting backgrounds and add to one's appreciation of the piece. 

Dinner was at the Moulin Rouge.  We felt very important as we bypassed the queue of people waiting to enter and were escorted to our table for a very nice dinner prior to the show.  The show was an absolute knock-out!  There were the beautiful ladies and men presented in many varied costumes and sets.  They performed the well known can can.  What we didn't expect were the other acts - a ventriliquist who used a live dog and people from the audience; a juggler; a sincronised swimmer who swam with two pythons in a pool which was raised above the stage!  A circus scene featuring 6 shetland ponies cantering with the dancers; also a strong man and lady who performed their talent of strength and balance.  It was a great culmination to the tour as we say goodbye to our fellow travellers.

Day 15 - Fri, 24 Sept - Omaha - Paris

Day 15 - Fri, 24 Sept - Omaha - Paris

We have been very lucky with the weather and have only experienced rain at the Normandy Beaches.  Today is forecast for showers.  We have a huge couple of days planned.   Being on a tour with a guide and driver who know exactly where to go and provide your tickets, saves a lot of time and effort.  I was excited about the prospect of visiting Monet's garden and house at Giverny.  It was exactly how I imagined - soft flows of water through a romantic garden filled with flowering blooms.  The house was light, bright with colour - an obvious haven and backdrop for artists to gather long ago.

After lunch, we visited Versailles - although we have seen it before, we hoped having a guide would give us a different perspective.  Unfortunately, the weather was inclement and the crowds were massive.  The volcano dust clouds earlier in the year resulted in September being very heavily booked for tourists.  It is always amazing to see such opulence, which a provides a reminder about what brought about the French revolution of the French poor.

We have had our farewell dinner at Chez ? and were served by a Sri Lankan Tamil who was very excited to meet Australians as his favourite cricket team is from Australia.  From the dinner we headed to the Seine River for a night cruise on a river boat.  The buildings are lit softly with golds and whites to enhance the cream stone and age of the city.  An amazing experience!

Day 14 - Thurs 23 Sept - Tours - Omaha Beach

Today we viisted Mont St. Michel which is a huge abbey built on an island called Mont Tombe (Tomb on the Hill).  Construction commencing in 966 with many alterations up until 1895/97.  It is circled by one street and an outer rampart wall.  Shops and cafes predominate here serving the bustling tourist market.  After enjoying crepes and paninis we headed to Liberty Highway to St.Lo and onto the D-Day landing beaches. 

The Americans have opened a new memorial to the soldiers killed during 1944-5.  It is absolutely beautiful and extremely reverent.  The cemetery is laid out in a Latin cross formation and cradles 9000 graves marked by a white stone cross or star of David.  It is on the beach where they stormed ashore on the 6th June 1944 under the command of Dwight Eisenhower.  The new memorial centre illustrates many individual sacrifices and it includes films with actual footage of landing and retreat of the Germans.  It would have been a terrifying sight as 47 divisions, mass aircraft and amphibious vehicles massed over northern France - assisted by overcast weather.  Apparently, the Germans on watch telephoned Hilter's Generals to advise, but they did not believe it and were afraid to awake Hitler to get his permission to move the Panzer tank divisions for reinforcement.  The allies even floated over the English Channel, hollow concrete pontoons to allow vehicles to be offloaded onto the shore.  Much of these pontoons still remain - the planning for D-Day took over a year to organise and its original date of 4 June had to be delayed due to bad weather in the channel.

It was such a sombre moment to view row after row of the stark white crosses and brings to bare the enormous loss of life from war.

Day 13 - Bourdeaux - Tours

From Bourdeaux we headed through the Poutou Charentes region to the Loire Valley.  There are grape vines for as far as the eye can see and for kilometre after kilometre.  The soil is dry and rocky but the vines are lush and green.  Our main stop today was the beautiful fairytale Palace of Chenonceau, set over the Cher river.  It has an amazing history.  It was the royal palace of Henry II in 1533 where his wife Catherine de Medici lived in the first floor and his mistress, Diane de Portiers lived on the ground floor.

Bordeaux

Chenencoux castle and grounds

During the WW2 the castle was occupied by the Germans but was used by the Resistance to smuggle people across the river.  The gardens are in a geometric style with small hedges and scrolling patterns with beautiful petalled pink roses adorning the perimeter.  A huge maze would delight any child and the estate farm was magnificent. 

At night the group had an optional trip to dine in a cave which was typical of how people created their homes by digging into the rock faces.  Stuart and I decided to do all the optionals as didn't want to miss out on anything! 

We drove about 5 kilometres from Tours to the restauant called, Le Cave.  Stuart tried escargo 5small snail pieces) in a sauce of mushrooms and garlic.  Meat seems to make up the major portion of French meals and Stuart is craving his vegetables although taking the opportunity to try any interesting dish.  Tomorrow we are off to Mont St.Michel.